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As with much of
Qinghai Province, the capital Xining has long been a fairly inhospitable, not easily
accessible area and the food that is produced here reflects this. The locals have since
ancient times relied upon native food materials that can be found in most areas throughout
Qinghai. These most famously include the Chinese Caterpillar Fungus (Dongchong
xiacao), Chrysanthemum Carp (Li yu), Flagelliform
Nostoc (Facai), and various forms of local Mushroom. The dishes that derive from these foods are interesting and, if cooked well, can rival
much that the more advanced eastern regions can produce. Local restaurants will serve
customers such delights as Chicken Cooked with Caterpillar Fungus (Danbai
chongcao ji), a nasty sounding, tasty and nourishing dish, Gold-fish-shaped
Flagelliform Nostoc (Facai jinyu), Chrysanthemum-shaped Carp
Slices (Juhua liyu), Steamed Egg with Flagelliform Nostoc
(Facai zhengdan), and Lamb Cooked with Sliced Mushroom (Yangrou
mogu pian). For many travelling here, the more common dishes are also worth trying, and they will
be cheaper. These can be found in the markets and on most streets, cooked in front of your
salivating mouths. The specialties are strongly Tibetan or Muslim influenced and the
concentration on mutton and noodles reflects this. These include Lamb Tenderloin
(Feng"er liji), Kebab (Kao yangrou), Yu Rangpi
(similar to the Dunhuang Rang pizi), Wang"s
Thick Sliced Noodle Pieces (Wang mianpian), Cold Noodles
(Liang mian), Soup Cooked with Lamb and Oxen Entrails (Zasui
tang), Hand Held Mutton (Shouzhua yangrou) and Lamb
Liver(Zhu yanggan). For breakfast you should really try the tasty Muslim
Yoghurt (Qingzheng suannai), a naturally sour, although often sweetened,
cow/water-buffalo/yak yoghurt. Also of interest, at least to watch, is the breakfast in
the old district of the city, where peasants will provide the cow for your own milk (bring
a glass and they will milk the beast for you). Xining has many different restaurants and areas to sample food and the most pleasant
are listed below:
AREAS
For places to eat, especially at night, your best bet are the markets scattered about town
that provide quick, cheap food/snacks. The most famous of these is the Water Well
Alley Night Market (Shuijing gang shangchang), with over 3,000 stalls,
that can be found on Shuijin gang, just near the West Gate (Ximen)
and off Xi dajie. There is also a big night market on Daxing jie.
Bus No.1 will take you to the Dashizi stop and from here it is a short walk north
near Yinma jie.
Around the Western City Gates (Ximen). This is
the area to sample the most authentic Muslim yoghurt.
Near the Xining Mansion (Xining dasha) at Bayi lu/Jianguo
lu. Food stalls here serve a selection of hotpot style dishes (with beef, lamb,
vegetables, tofu and vermicelli).
Around the Yongfu Hotel (Yongfu binguan) on Jianguo lu/Binhe
lu. Stalls and restaurants around here serve mostly Muslim food, including kebabs and
mutton dishes. RESTAURANTS
The Cafe (Xining bingguan) in the Xining Hotel at 215 Qili
lu. The best "cafe" in town--a vast Chinese-style hall with big round
tables where enticing Mongolian hotpot buffet can be had for a cheap RMB35.
Yongfu Hotel (Yongfu binguan) on Jianguo lu/Binhe
lu. This hotel has a small restaurant that serves cheap dishes. The area around the
hotel also does decent Muslim food.
Xiaoyuanmen Restaurant (Xiaoyuanmen shifu) on Dongguan dajie.
Serves good Muslim food.
Mazhong Rangpi Restaurant (Mazhong rangpi fandian), not far from
the Daxing jie night market. Prices here are extremely cheap, a section for just
RMB4.
Yinghua Mianpian Restaurant (Yinghua mianpian fandian), reached
using bus No.33 from the railway station, getting off at the Shaanshantai stop. Serves
large bowls of these squares of noodles for RMB5.
Shang Yi Da Xia at 190 Dongguan lu. Small Muslim restaurant that
does some good hotpots.
Qinghai Minzu Hotel (Qinghai minzu binguan) on Dong dajie/Huayuan
lu. Has a good restaurant within. |
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